We headed out with our packs on our backs and boots on our feet last Tuesday for the 3 day trek to Todos Santos. Juan is from the aldea (village) of Palop which is along the way. This was his first time leading this particular route, but we were assured that he knew the way.
We started out heading pretty much straight uphill...no switchbacks whatsoever. 'This is the road of our ancestors,' commented Juan. 'I am a weak and whiny gringa,' I thought to myself. We walked, and walked some more, and then some more until we reached the village where one of Juan's daughters lived. Her and her family treated us to a lunch of the Ixil region's traditional boxbole (a green leafy vegetable cooked and wrapped around corn masa). We trekked on after lunch until we reached Palop where we stayed the night. Juan and his family had built a small dormitory just for backpackers that pass through. It was quite comfy.
The next day pushed me to my limits. We probably made 4 to 5 very steep ascensions and descensions. It was slow going for me. And had I not just finished the Gold's Gym Challenge, I'm not sure how I would have fared. I think the main obstacle was altitude. I have lived at or near sea level for the past 20 years and we were at 7000 feet or higher. Every step I took uphill, I felt my lungs heave. I was sucking up water through my camelbak fast and was worried I would run out before finding the next tienda. Meanwhile, Anna chatted up Juan with her awesome Spanish skills...both way ahead of me. It was a very long day. We covered approximately 9 miles, got lost a couple of times, saw a lot of gorgeous and rugged country, and ended up in La Capellania at Juan's sister-in-law's house where we were greeted by some of the 15 children of the household.
It was a challenging evening. We were at the highest point of the trip (approx. 9000-10000 feet), which meant it was going to get very cold that night. Anna and I shared a bed for warmth with 6 blankets on top of us and were still cold (and this is summertime). I wondered how anyone could live there with no heat. But they do. Perhaps your body adjusts. It is a very rugged and difficult life. I am thankful for all the spoilings I have at home.
La Capellania to Todos Santos
We started out early the next day, taking last minute photos of the kids (to be posted later) before we left. It was another 9 mile day, but the terrain was much different... more level and along the carretera part of the way. I was feeling good, strong, and able despite lack of sleep and little food. As we entered into the region of Todos Santos we began to see children in traditional dress and large houses with the American flag painted on them. Juan said a lot of people from Todos travel to the U.S. to work and send home money, hence the 2-3 story houses.
Juan kept trying to convince us to hop on a pick-up or bus the rest of the way into town, but Anna and I had this vision of descending into the valley from the forest...yes, a bit cheesy, but just humor us here. It was a beautiful hike and I'm glad I didn't give up (I was ready to take a bus the rest of the way the day before).
The hike only produced a few blisters on my feet, but then I busted one open and made it bleed while walking around town in my flip flops. Oh woe is me.
We thought Todos Santos was going to be a super touristy town, but it didn't seem to be when we arrived. All the restaurants had been closed down and no beer is sold due to an excess of fighting. That left only comedors with comida tipica (beans, rice, fried chicken) which you can only stand for so many days in a row. We left a day early to meet Joe at Lake Atitlan in search of gringo food.
Mission accomplished. It was an amazing experience.
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